Serving the Industry for over 75 years
Use our Resource Center to answer Frequently Asked Questions: 1-800-EYELET-1 (800-393-5381)
Frequently asked questions |
How do I place an order? |
Siska Inc. sells to Companies only. Please call our office toll free 800-393-5381 to speak with a representative. You may fax your order or inquiry to 201-794-8147, or email us at [email protected] . We will contact you as soon as possible.
Our standard hours of operation are 8:00 am - 5:00 pm EST
We are open Monday ~ Friday, closed on all major holidays.
We look forward to hearing from you!
Our standard hours of operation are 8:00 am - 5:00 pm EST
We are open Monday ~ Friday, closed on all major holidays.
We look forward to hearing from you!
Many people think that if you use a washer with your application, then you are using a grommet. This is not the case. The main difference between an eyelet and a grommet is that the grommet has a larger flange diameter in relation to the hole size than an eyelet. The larger flange is used for additional holding strength in high stress applications such as tents, banners & flags. For most applications an eyelet with a washer will provide more that adequate holding power if set properly.
Grommets tend to look more "industrial" and don't have the "finished look" of an eyelet. Eyelets are the main choice in garments, belts, hats, shoes & other applications where aesthetics are important. Eyelets are also the main choice when binding papers booklets, calendars & for hole re-enforcements in tags & labels. The small flange of the eyelet doesn't not detract from the overall appearance of these items since it's not as pronounced as the flange on a grommet. Below is a picture to illustrate these points. On the left is a eyelet with the same inside hole diameter as the grommet on the right. Notice how much larger the flange on the Grommet on the right is versus the eyelet on the left. |
The hole size in most cases can be easily determined. If the purpose of the eyelet or grommet is to provide support for a chord, draw string or metal hook, a slightly larger inside diameter (ID) or hole size is needed so the cord or chain can easily fit through it. Most eyelets sizes are listed by the outside diameter (OD) of the barrel. To determine the ID of the eyelet, take the OD and minus the metal thickness of the barrel twice. This will give you an approximate ID. Most grommets sizes are listed by the hole size (ID) so there is no need to figure this out. In most applications the eyelet or grommet if not there for pure decoration is there to serve a purpose. This may be re-enforcement of the hole or to bind two or more pieces of material together. In these cases the smallest eyelet that will perform the operation is usually selected as not to be the most pronounced feature of the application. In these instances a small hole as well as a small flange is desirable. If the eyelet is there for decoration purposes the size of eyelet or grommet hole and flange are a matter of personal preference.
Probably the most important factor in selecting an eyelet or grommet is the thickness of the material. The thickness and type of material will determine the correct barrel length of the eyelet or grommet. If the barrel length is too long the eyelet or grommet barrel will collapse or crack during the setting procedure. If the barrel is too short the eyelet or grommet will not set properly into the material resulting in a weak setting that will pull out. No two applications are alike and it is impossible to publish a specific standard as to just how much barrel length of an eyelet or grommet should be allowed to obtain a proper roll or scored setting. (For a description of a roll and score setting visit our die page). In rigid material usually less length is required than in softer or flexible material. In material that is soft or flexible more barrel length is advantageous so a wider roll or score setting can be used for added strength. If the material is stretchy or very thin as in a paper binding application a washer should sometimes be used for added holding strength. In stretchy material a wider flange is desirable. Where parts are to be assembled and left to rotate (as in a pin wheel) a longer barrel is required.
To select the proper length of an eyelet or grommet determine the overall thickness of your application including the thickness of a washer if one is used and add the additional length from the above chart. For a final determination after selecting an eyelet let us set some samples in your material (at no charge) to insure the proper length. If you are not sure what eyelet or grommet to use in your application send us your samples and we will be glad to set different fasteners for your testing and approval.
Probably the most important factor in selecting an eyelet or grommet is the thickness of the material. The thickness and type of material will determine the correct barrel length of the eyelet or grommet. If the barrel length is too long the eyelet or grommet barrel will collapse or crack during the setting procedure. If the barrel is too short the eyelet or grommet will not set properly into the material resulting in a weak setting that will pull out. No two applications are alike and it is impossible to publish a specific standard as to just how much barrel length of an eyelet or grommet should be allowed to obtain a proper roll or scored setting. (For a description of a roll and score setting visit our die page). In rigid material usually less length is required than in softer or flexible material. In material that is soft or flexible more barrel length is advantageous so a wider roll or score setting can be used for added strength. If the material is stretchy or very thin as in a paper binding application a washer should sometimes be used for added holding strength. In stretchy material a wider flange is desirable. Where parts are to be assembled and left to rotate (as in a pin wheel) a longer barrel is required.
To select the proper length of an eyelet or grommet determine the overall thickness of your application including the thickness of a washer if one is used and add the additional length from the above chart. For a final determination after selecting an eyelet let us set some samples in your material (at no charge) to insure the proper length. If you are not sure what eyelet or grommet to use in your application send us your samples and we will be glad to set different fasteners for your testing and approval.
- What holes size am I looking for?
- What is the overall thickness of the material to be eyeleted?
- Is my material stretchy, flexible or rigid?
- Do I want the eyelet to be visible in my work for decorative purposes?
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The Setting Pressure on an eyelet or grommet machine can be set in a few ways depending on the style of machine. On a simple kick press or bench top machine there is usually a stop pin with an adjusting screw & nut that limits the stroke of the foot pedal or arm. By adjusting this screw, you will only be able to pull the arm or kick the pedal to a measured distance thus regulating the amount of setting pressure.
If your machine is a power machine AWLAYS TURN OFF THE POWER before adjusting the setting pressure. On stand alone machines such as the Stimson 489 Model, the bottom die can be raised or lowered to adjust the setting pressure. The higher the bottom die is raised, the more the setting pressure is increased. Lowering the bottom die lowers the setting pressure. Most stand alone machines have a lock screw that hold the bottom die in place. You myst first loosen this screw or allen screw to adjust the die up or down. Loosen the locking nut on the bottom adjusting screw. Now raise or lower the bottom die by turning the bottom adjusting screw clockwise or counter-clock wise. |
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Turn this screw 1/2 turn and check the setting. IF YOUR MACHINE IS ELECTRIC POWERED DO NOT CHECK THE SETTING PRESSURE UNDER POWER. ALWAYS TURN THE MACHINE OVER BY HAND. When you achieve the proper setting pressure, tighten the locknut on the adjusting screw and then tighten the locking screw to hold the die in the machine.
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When the Pockets on a 489 Machine are out of alignment, the result will be a mis-feed of the eyelet. The mis-feed will result in the eyelet being spit out of the machine onto the floor. This occurs when the spindle in the Top Die does not go directly into the center of the eyelet. The pockets must be positioned so that when an eyelet is fed from the raceway its is correctly positioned in the pockets (figure 2). The following is the procedure to align the pockets correctly:
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Figure 1
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Figure 2
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Figure 3
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- UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFORE MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS. All adjustments should be made & checked with the machine being turned over by hand only.
- The first thing that needs to be checked is the alignment of the raceway & top die. With the pockets off the machine, first check the raceway alignment as follows: When the top die is at its furthest point of travel down, it should be directly in the center of the rails. If it is not, loosen the raceway screws that hold it to the machine and adjust accordingly. Once the raceway is centered, attached the pockets to the pocket holder & attach it to the machine.
- On the diagram above (figure 1) part A should be lined up just below the raceway about 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch gap.
- In Figure 3, the two arms of the pockets should be in line with the two rails on the outside of the raceway. Part B above should NOT TOUCH the Raceway at all. It should be approx 1/16" from the tip of the raceway. If alter lining up the pockets so the spindle fits inside of the eyelet correctly (see below) part B is touching the raceway, Part B will need to be ground down so the pockets can be brought closer in toward the raceway if necessary.
- As the top Die comes down, it should split the two arms of the pockets equally - the spindle should go straight thru the center of the eyelet. When the eyelet is sitting in the pocket, the eyelet should be al the way against the inside edge of the pocket as in Figure 2. When top die comes down thru its cycle, the spindle inside the top die should pass directly thru the center of the eyelet. If it does not & hits the flange of the eyelet, it will usually toss the eyelet onto the floor. To correct this, you may have to shim the pocket holder to move it out away rom the raceway or tap the holder with a hammer to bring it closer to the raceway. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK THE POCKET HOLDER OR THE POCKETS THEMSELVES. Tap lightly. Call us if you need help: 800-393-5381.
There are three basic type of grommets that are industry standards. These grommet are sized according to the hole size in the grommet after it is set. Grommet numbers start with #00, then #0 thru #8. The larger the number, the larger the hole size. For a complete list of sizes available with dimensions visit our Grommet Page.
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Plain Grommets & Washers
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Rolled Rim Grommet & Spur Washers
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Self-Piercing Grommet & Washers
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When placing an eyelet in your work, having the proper size hole is essential in getting a good setting. How the hole is made is also important depending on the type of material that you are eyeleting. If your material is rigid & has no stretch, then a hole can be cut. If the material is stretchy, then piercing a hole witha pierce point or bodkin point die will yield a bettering setting. This article will concern itself with those materials that require a hole to be cut. All eyelets are sized by the Outside Diameter (OD) of the eyelet barrel. The size of the hole should be at least .004, or 4 thousandths, larger tan the OD of the eyelet barrel, but no larger than .015 or 15 thousandths. Using a hole this size will allow the eyelet to be easily placed in the material while maintaining a strong setting. If a washer is being used, the hole size can be as large as the Inside Diameter ( ID ) of the Washer.
Grommets have a tapered narrel and their dimensions are usually stated as the hole size after setting. For example: a #2 Plain Grommet has a hole size after setting of 3/8" of an inch, or .375." To determine what hole size to cut for a grommet, the ID of the accompanying washer should be used as the hole size. Example: a #2 Washer has an ID of .453."
Making a hole that is larger than needed will result in a weak setting with the possibility that the grommet or eyelet will pull out under pressure.
Grommets have a tapered narrel and their dimensions are usually stated as the hole size after setting. For example: a #2 Plain Grommet has a hole size after setting of 3/8" of an inch, or .375." To determine what hole size to cut for a grommet, the ID of the accompanying washer should be used as the hole size. Example: a #2 Washer has an ID of .453."
Making a hole that is larger than needed will result in a weak setting with the possibility that the grommet or eyelet will pull out under pressure.
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The Stimpson 489 Eyelet Machine was produced in two basic head configurations, a Regular frame and an "S" frame as illustrated. The difference is the type of bottom arm that machine is equipped with. The 489 Regular has a bottom arm of cast iron similar to the rest of the head & base. The 489 "S" version has a round steel arm. The tooling or dies for these machines are NOT interchangable. The bottom die is a different diameter and the top die & spindle are different lengths.
When ordering tooling for your 489 machine, it is important to know what basic configuration your machine is. This same configuration also applies to the Stimpson 469 deep throat machines. Call us if you need help identifying your machines 800-393-5381. |
489 Regular
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489 "S"
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How do I choose the right machine for my application?
There are a number of factors that determine what type of setting machine you should use. The quantity of work that needs to be done is an important factor. If your eyelet or grommet setting needs are very infrequent then a hand setting tool that you hit with a mallet will do. (go to the hand setting tool page) These types of setting tools are used mostly in repair work where the repair must be done in the field. The hand setting tools are a primitive way of setting an eyelet or grommet and do not usually lead to the best setting. It is hard to determine how hard you have to hit the top driver to set the eyelet or grommet and multiple settings usually do not come out consistent. If the top driver is held at a slight angle, one side of the grommet will set more than the other result in an uneven roll setting.
If your application requires consistent pressure settings, the next option is the tabletop bench setters. These machines are equipped with an adjustable stop to regulate the exact amount of setting pressure applied. In applications such as attaching an eyelet to a computer board or making a pinwheel, over setting an eyelet would result in a crushed and broken computer board or a pinwheel that did not spin. The bench top setters deliver a straight even pressure that results in a perfect setting time after time. Once the stop is adjusted there is no fear of over setting or under setting the eyelet or grommet. These machines are totally manual and all parts (eyelets, grommets and washers) and your work are hand fed. Siska Inc has bench top hand setters that will set the smallest electronic eyelets all the way up to a #6 grommet. Since all these machines are hand feed only they are a slow method of setting an eyelet or grommet. If you application requires you to set a few thousand eyelets or grommets these machine would be sufficient. (go to the bench top eyelet setting machine page)
The next progression in machines would be the foot press setters. The advantage of a foot press is that both your hands are free to hold the work and hand feed the eyelets, grommets or washers. The foot presses also make it easier on the operator since most people's legs are stronger than their arms. Higher quantities can be set each day with a foot press versus a hand press because there is less operator fatigue. Foot presses are available to set the smallest electronic eyelet up to a #8 Rolled Rim Grommet. (go to the foot press setting machine page)
If you have a job that requires setting 10 thousand eyelets or grommets or more, then an auto-feed foot press is appropriate. The eyelets or grommets are fed into a hopper on the side of the machine and are automatically placed into your application with foot power. The advantage of the auto feed machine is speed. Only your work has to be placed on the machine as the eyelets or grommets are fed automatically. You can expect an increase in production of at least 3 to 1 over a hand feed foot press. (go to the 489 auto feed foot press setting machine page) For higher production the foot press can be air assisted or electric powered. This will all but eliminate operator fatigue and result in higher production even after 5 or 6 hours of work since only a tap of your foot activates these machines. (go to the 489 air /electric powered eyelet setting machine page)
Most hand and foot presses require that your work have a hole in it already to accept the eyelet or grommet. Setting dies can be made to pierce the work by the operator pulling the material over a sharp point. Siska Inc. can also make cut/setting dies that will require the operator to cycle the machine twice. One cycle to cut the hole in the material and another cycle to set the eyelet or grommet. Pre-cutting or punching a hole in your work is always preferred to making the hole with the dies or eyelet setting machines. This is not a problem in many applications where the application is first formed by stamping presses or die cutting. Having a precut hole in your application insures that the eyelets or grommets will be placed in the same position in each piece and not rely on the operator for placement. If pre cutting a hole is not practical, guides or gauges can be made and fitted to the eyelet or grommet machines to assist the operator in getting an accurate placement. Production speeds do suffer however since the machine has to be cycled twice and care must be taken to position the piece correctly in the machine.
The next step to increased production is the automatic two-cycle eyelet or grommet setter. These machines are electric powered tabletop models that are actuated by tapping a foot pedal. The machine quickly cycles twice cutting the hole on the first cycle and setting the eyelet or grommet on the second cycle. This entire process takes less than a second. An example of this type of machine is the "Model F".
Another factor in machine selection is how far the eyelet or grommet is set from the edge of your application. Throat depths vary on all machines and some machines are only capable of setting an eyelet within 4 inches of the edge of the work. The throat depths are listed on our machine pages and are an important factor to consider.
If your application requires you to set eyelets or grommets up to a size 0 in a series, there is no finer machine on the market than the Siska Rapid eyelet machine. This machine was specifically designed to manufacture belts and shoes. The machine is capable of punching a hole, setting an eyelet and feeding the material in rapid succession and can set 5 eyelets one inch apart in less than 3 seconds. (go to the Siska Rapid eyelet machine page)
Siska Inc. has been building eyelet machines since 1938 and in its third generation of ownership can make selecting the appropriate machine easy. Just send us a sample of your job and we can recommend the right machine. For more complicated applications we can make a videotape of our machines in action with your material.
If your application requires consistent pressure settings, the next option is the tabletop bench setters. These machines are equipped with an adjustable stop to regulate the exact amount of setting pressure applied. In applications such as attaching an eyelet to a computer board or making a pinwheel, over setting an eyelet would result in a crushed and broken computer board or a pinwheel that did not spin. The bench top setters deliver a straight even pressure that results in a perfect setting time after time. Once the stop is adjusted there is no fear of over setting or under setting the eyelet or grommet. These machines are totally manual and all parts (eyelets, grommets and washers) and your work are hand fed. Siska Inc has bench top hand setters that will set the smallest electronic eyelets all the way up to a #6 grommet. Since all these machines are hand feed only they are a slow method of setting an eyelet or grommet. If you application requires you to set a few thousand eyelets or grommets these machine would be sufficient. (go to the bench top eyelet setting machine page)
The next progression in machines would be the foot press setters. The advantage of a foot press is that both your hands are free to hold the work and hand feed the eyelets, grommets or washers. The foot presses also make it easier on the operator since most people's legs are stronger than their arms. Higher quantities can be set each day with a foot press versus a hand press because there is less operator fatigue. Foot presses are available to set the smallest electronic eyelet up to a #8 Rolled Rim Grommet. (go to the foot press setting machine page)
If you have a job that requires setting 10 thousand eyelets or grommets or more, then an auto-feed foot press is appropriate. The eyelets or grommets are fed into a hopper on the side of the machine and are automatically placed into your application with foot power. The advantage of the auto feed machine is speed. Only your work has to be placed on the machine as the eyelets or grommets are fed automatically. You can expect an increase in production of at least 3 to 1 over a hand feed foot press. (go to the 489 auto feed foot press setting machine page) For higher production the foot press can be air assisted or electric powered. This will all but eliminate operator fatigue and result in higher production even after 5 or 6 hours of work since only a tap of your foot activates these machines. (go to the 489 air /electric powered eyelet setting machine page)
Most hand and foot presses require that your work have a hole in it already to accept the eyelet or grommet. Setting dies can be made to pierce the work by the operator pulling the material over a sharp point. Siska Inc. can also make cut/setting dies that will require the operator to cycle the machine twice. One cycle to cut the hole in the material and another cycle to set the eyelet or grommet. Pre-cutting or punching a hole in your work is always preferred to making the hole with the dies or eyelet setting machines. This is not a problem in many applications where the application is first formed by stamping presses or die cutting. Having a precut hole in your application insures that the eyelets or grommets will be placed in the same position in each piece and not rely on the operator for placement. If pre cutting a hole is not practical, guides or gauges can be made and fitted to the eyelet or grommet machines to assist the operator in getting an accurate placement. Production speeds do suffer however since the machine has to be cycled twice and care must be taken to position the piece correctly in the machine.
The next step to increased production is the automatic two-cycle eyelet or grommet setter. These machines are electric powered tabletop models that are actuated by tapping a foot pedal. The machine quickly cycles twice cutting the hole on the first cycle and setting the eyelet or grommet on the second cycle. This entire process takes less than a second. An example of this type of machine is the "Model F".
Another factor in machine selection is how far the eyelet or grommet is set from the edge of your application. Throat depths vary on all machines and some machines are only capable of setting an eyelet within 4 inches of the edge of the work. The throat depths are listed on our machine pages and are an important factor to consider.
If your application requires you to set eyelets or grommets up to a size 0 in a series, there is no finer machine on the market than the Siska Rapid eyelet machine. This machine was specifically designed to manufacture belts and shoes. The machine is capable of punching a hole, setting an eyelet and feeding the material in rapid succession and can set 5 eyelets one inch apart in less than 3 seconds. (go to the Siska Rapid eyelet machine page)
Siska Inc. has been building eyelet machines since 1938 and in its third generation of ownership can make selecting the appropriate machine easy. Just send us a sample of your job and we can recommend the right machine. For more complicated applications we can make a videotape of our machines in action with your material.
- Keep the machine clean. In manufacturing environments, grommet machines tend to get dirty, collect lint chips, etc. At the end of each day, clean all debris off the machine. Blowing the machine off with compressed air is the easiest way to accomplish this.
- Oil the machine each morning before starting. All machines old by Siska Inc have the important oil points indicated by arrows or red dots. Use 30 wt Motor Oil. Do not use light weight sewing machine oil.
- Don't get oil, dirt or debris on the raceway (auto feed units). Clean the inside rails of the raceway with rubbing alcohol to remove all was or oil buildup. Dirty raceways will inhibit the proper feeding of your eyelets or grommets.
- Always check your top & bottom dies for wear. These parts re made of hardened tool steel and should last for many months or years depending on usage. When the do get worn, the quality of your setting will diminish and should be changed. The brushes in the cup of your auto feed machines will also wear with time. If your eyelet or grommet feed is not keeping up with the operator, check to make sure the raceway is clean and brushes are not worn out.
- Do not lift of pull on the raceway when moving the machines.
- Do not fill the eyelet or grommet hopper more than halfway.
- Do not put any lubricants on the eyelets or grommets themselves.
- Don't operate machines without approved safety device and all guards in place. Check frequently that safety devices are in proper working order & adjustment.
Locating Point Tools:
Locating Point Dies are used where there is a pre-punched hole in your material
Locating Point Dies are used where there is a pre-punched hole in your material
- If you're using a washer, out the washer on the bottom die first. If the washer has a slight bevel to it, put the washer facing up (similar to a saucer for a coffee cup)
- Place your material over the blunt point of the bottom die
- Place your Eyelet or Grommet Barrel side DOWN on the bottom die pilot
- Cycle the machine to complete the setting
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Bodkin Point Tool Instructions:
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Cut & Set Tools instructions:
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Siska, Inc can fix almost any machine built in the USA or overseas. Call our office to speak to a representative in our Machinery Department for more info. 800-393-5381
Our tooling department can make Setting Dies for any machine with the proper measurements & samples provided. To get a comprehensive list of machines we can fix, resize & re-tool, visit our Repair & Rebuild page.
Our tooling department can make Setting Dies for any machine with the proper measurements & samples provided. To get a comprehensive list of machines we can fix, resize & re-tool, visit our Repair & Rebuild page.
Does Siska Inc purchase used equipment?
We do. Provide us with detailed photos of your machine and let us make you an offer. We arrange for Pick-up, but all machines must be bolted to a Skid and crated to ensure a safe delivery. Contact us
The ARP bench top eyelet machine is an accurate, economical eyelet or grommet setter. Your setting machine came equipped with setting tools which are specific to the eyelet or grommet that you are using. If you need to change eyelet sizes you must also change your setting dies. Always make sure that your setting dies are locked into position with the allen wrench that is supplied. Below is a picture of how the dies look mounted in the machine.
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*SETTING PRESSURE SHOULD ALWAYS BE ADJUSTED WHEN DIES ARE CHANGED OR WORK IS CHANGED.
*TEST SETTING PRESSURE WITH EYELET ONLY BEFORE TRYING IT IN YOUR WORK How to Adjust the Setting Pressure on a ARP Bench Top Eyelet Machine: 1. Lower top driving shaft down to desired crushing pressure on the eyelet. 2. Adjust top screw until it is touching top driving shaft pin and tighten the lock nut down to secure. 3. To adjust the handle position lever for personal preference, loosen screw on the collar that is on the left side of the machine. Pull shaft out from the right side. Position bar to one's own preference, place back into the machine and reattach collar by locking screw.
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